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Bend Oregon Pictures

SMITH ROCK

By Scott Staats

 

 When snow conditions aren’t the best up in the mountains and you still want to get outdoors for some exercise, Smith Rock State Park offers year round hiking.

 

The big bird soared like a hang-glider along the rock faces, at times its wings seemed to touch the cliff itself. With a wingspan of up to seven feet across, the golden eagle is one of the largest birds of prey in North America.

Visitors to Smith Rock State Park are privileged to view the eagles daily, which are in the process of choosing one of their eight nest sites in the park to lay eggs and raise their young.

Golden Eagles have nested on the canyon walls of the Crooked River for thousands of years. The pair lives in the park year round. They nest from mid-February to mid-June, feeding primarily on jackrabbits, cottontails, marmots and ground squirrels. Nests can be four feet across, up to 12 feet tall and weigh as much as 2,000 pounds. Look on the rock faces at the north end of the park road across the river to see two or three of the nests.

Certain hiking trails and climbing routes are closed during this time to protect the birds. Check at trailheads for closures.

The trail descends from the parking lot on the rimrock down into the Crooked River Canyon. Just before descending, there is an overlook with an interpretive sign explaining some of the geology of the park. Rock climbers can be spotted on the other side clinging to the precipitous walls. The river snakes its way through the canyon, carving ever downward and leaving behind its calming sounds.

Once across the bridge, hikers have three options. Take a right and hike upriver about a mile to where a large canal enters a tunnel through a ridge of rock. From here, the Burma Road leads uphill, providing great overall views of the park. The cliffs in this section usually host the nesting eagles.

The trail on the west side of the bridge leads straight ahead up and over Misery Ridge and down past Monkey Face. Turning left and heading downriver brings the hiker to a huge darkish rock jutting up to the right of the trail. This is an ancient volcanic neck or plug where lava and ash poured from eruptions many years ago.

A short distance farther is the most popular section of the park for rock climbing. White chalk and glistening hardware can be seen on the pinkish rock as climbers attempt some of the most challenging routes in the country. One climb is rated as one of the top three most challenging climbs in the world. Techniques developed on the cliffs in the 1980’s helped drive the development of sport climbing for the entire country.

Visitors from all over the country and beyond come to the park to enjoy its natural beauty and recreational opportunities. A glance at license plates in the parking lot revealed vehicles from Oregon, Washington, Maine, Ohio, Wisconsin, California and British Columbia.

As the trail makes a big winding horseshoe back to the north, it leaves the climbing walls and becomes more of a hiking trail, meandering through juniper and ponderosa pine. Rock doves coo from the towering, jagged spires above. Geese and Barrow’s goldeneyes swim and feed in the river. Great Blue Herons can also be seen in this stretch of river.

Not long after turning north, the prominent rock formation known as Monkey Face comes into view. The face is looking to the right and oftentimes you can spot climbers in its mouth. Parts of Kevin Costner’s movie, The Postman, was filmed a short distance downstream from there.

To make a loop, head up past Monkey Face and back down Misery Ridge to the footbridge. Roundtrip back to the parking lot is about four miles.

As the days get longer and the amount of light changes, we get all the shadows and color contrasts on the rocks,” said Fred Dawson, the park’s manager. He said that many people visit the 600-acre park for its birding opportunities. Besides the eagles, there are a few pair of Prairie Falcons that nest on the cliffs as well as Red-tailed Hawks, Canyon Wrens and Rock Doves. A variety of songbirds and waterfowl can also be seen along the river.

It is estimated that an average of 415,000 people visit Smith Rock each year. Dawson said that several years ago 80 percent of visitors were climbers but today there’s more of a mixture of climbers and those interested in hiking, picnicking, geology, birding, mountain biking and horseback riding. Anglers also try their luck for trout in the river. He suggests that visitors respect the wildlife and stay on the trails.

There are about 12 miles of trails in the park. Permits are $3 per day or $25 for an annual pass. Day passes can be purchased in the park.

 

 

Smith Rock Geology

There are three main types of volcanic rock in the park. Ryolite is the hard rock, which can be seen in the large volcanic neck that juts up along the river and is the bulk of the rock in the park.

Next is the tufted ash, which is softer pink rock that the climbers use. It originated locally from ash blown into the air from volcanic vents then settled back to the ground, leaving a layer hundreds of feet thick. Time and pressure turned the ash to rock.

The third type in the intrusive lava, which is seen as the columnar basalt rimming the river canyon. This lava flowed overland from the Horse Ridge area east of Bend.

 

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